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A still from Tony Donoghue's Irish Folk Furniture.

A still from Tony Donoghue’s Irish Folk Furniture.

For the last five days I’ve been fortunate to be in Park City, Utah again for the Sundance Film Festival.

It’s been a crazy week…a fabulous week…an emotional week.

As I sit here and quickly write this post, I have already seen three films. I have tickets for another four. The subject matter includes the hardship and death of an illegal emigrant (Who is Dayani Cristal), pornography (Lovelace), police brutality (Fruitvale), nuclear energy (Pandora’s Promise), the power of activism (Occupy Wall Street), the crushing reality of hate (Valentine Road) and, finally, classism (American Promise). All-in-all, it’s pretty heavy stuff.

So you can imagine my great relief and joy when I was able to sit with my laptop and watch a light-hearted Irish “short” film on YouTube called Irish Folk Furniture.   It is a charming eight-minute animated documentary following 16 pieces of traditional folk furniture as they are repaired and returned to their owners. It was made by director Tony Donoghue and producer Cathal Black after ten years of research and interviews conducted in Co. Tipperary.

Last night Tony and Cathal were rewarded for their efforts by winning the Short Film Special Jury Award in Animation. There were over 8,000 short-film submissions made to Sundance this year. 65 were chosen for the competition. 7 won.

If you have a few minutes, watch this superb little film. It is “full of life and told with beautiful simplicity.”

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Last weekend, in Washington, D.C., Pat Mitchell of the Paley Center for Media hosted a TEDxWomen 2012 Conference, a weekend-long event exploring the topic of “The Space Between”. The Space Between is a hard concept to grasp but in essence it boils down to this: it’s that infinite place between two opposing views where ideas are born and discussed.

feature-tedw-2012-by-paley1a

In a short period of time and in a beautiful venue (the United States Institute of Peace), 50 speakers from around the globe, both male and female, young and old, talked about the space between poverty and plenty, fact and faith, IQ and EQ, what we see and what we reflect, stops and starts, and seeing and doing.

What was wonderful about the topic of The Space Between is that it allowed for personal interpretation of values, beliefs, anger, wonderment, thanksgiving, artistry, and so much more. Because there was no clearly defined meaning, the speakers could tailor their presentations to fit their personal take on all things. And, just in case the word Women after the TEDx makes anyone think the conference was something akin to a bra burning, man hating, feminist event, rest assured it was anything but that. From war correspondents to artists, the topics ranged from helping reconnect prison fathers with their daughters to gender lens investing to Darwin reshaping the way we think about creation. To see a complete list of the conference speakers and synopsis of their talks click here.

I was fortunate to go to TEDxWomen 2012 The Space Between. For me it was an opportunity, after many years of primarily being a mom, to explore where, in the near future, I may make the most of my time, talent and treasure. It wasn’t a life changing experience but it certainly was life shifting. I hope to attend next year’s event and would encourage you to do so too.

 

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A belated Happy Thanksgiving to you!

Recently I’d hoped to blog about the joys of celebrating Thanksgiving in Ireland but, things being what they are, it wasn’t to be. Instead of cooking and writing, I jetted off to sunny California at the last minute with the family and, as a test, I traveled with my iPad rather than my laptop.

Writing on the iPad proved difficult. I didn’t think about pre-uploading recipes or photos to a “cloud” or Dropbox and I didn’t think about the possibility of dodgy internet connections. Mind you, I haven’t given up altogether (I’m writing on the iPad  now from Washington, D.C.). The test will be when I press the “Publish” button yet again…will it work this time or not? We’ll see.

So I missed sharing my mother-in-law’s stuffing recipe with you and telling you about the homemade pumpkin pie recipe I found and tried. (Who knew it was easy to make delicious pumpkin pie without a can of Libby’s?) The upside of this lost opportunity was that our little family spent time with our larger Irish family now living in sunny California. We met the newest addition, baby Neve (sounds like “never” without the “r”), tasted new foods, saw the latest Hollywood releases and shopped the sales. The recipes will wait until Christmas…right?
At this late date all I can offer you is the following Irish blessing. It was perfect for our Thanksgiving celebration. Perhaps you’ll recite it some evening when you sit down to dine with your loved ones.

“May love and laughter light your days,

and warm your heart and home.

May good and faithful friends be yours,

wherever you may roam.

May peace and plenty bless your world

with joy that long endures.

May all life’s passing seasons

bring the best to you and yours!”

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Yesterday was a day of absolute wonder. Despite the heat, we took the children into the walled city of Dubrovnik and had great fun doing the simplest of things.

The Old City of Dubrovnik Coming into View

First we took a water taxi ride 10 km up the coast from our hotel to the Old Harbor of Dubrovnik. The six of us, the triplets mostly slept, watched in awe as rugged cliffs and an azure sea gave way to a stone fortress and a village teeming with people.

The Harbour and Boats

After walking through one of the ancient archways surrounding the city and rounding a corner, we immediately found ourselves on the main square of Luza. From there it was an easy walk to some of the best sites including the Rector’s Palace, the Cathedral and its Treasury, the Sponza Palace and the Dominican Monastery.

The Cathedral & Treasury

Entrance to Sponza Palace

In need of a break, we stopped for ice cream on the Stradun. With a colourful array of flavours to choose from the difficulty came in picking just one from the artfully presented mounds behind the glass case. In the end I went for my favourite, lemon sorbet, but the sour cherry was very tempting!

Cones for Ice Cream

Cooled and reenergized, we strolled further down the Stradun. The beautiful street is lined with Baroque buildings and is home to many churches, restaurants and shops. We came upon several interesting high-fashion stores including Max Mara, Marella, Dubrovačka Kuća, Maria, Michal Negrin and Ronchi to name but a few. And there were some local street entertainers who kept us enthralled as we walked.

Street Entertainer & His Birds

The afternoon heat did not let up and we were very thankful to find communal drinking fountains, like Onofrio’s Great Fountain which is next to the church of St. Salvation and Onofrio’s Small Fountain at the other end of the Stradun near the Bell Tower. With it’s large dome and sixteen taps going right-the-way-round, the Great Fountain is an ideal respite for those wishing to cool off and refill water bottles. The Small Fountain, whimsically decorated with playful dolphins, is equally lovely.

Onofrio’s Small Fountain

For an early dinner, we ate at a restaurant called Olivia Gourmet (address: Cvijete Zurzoric 2, tel: +385-(0)20-324067). It’s a very relaxed place, with a modern decor, and serves Italian-style food in both an indoor and outdoor setting. The Olivia Pizzeria is right next door and the owners graciously allowed us to order pizza for the five hungry children while we adults enjoyed fresh octopus salads and a bottle of local wine. After dinner the nine of us strolled casually back towards the Old Harbour through tiny streets where people live, work and play.

A Tiny Lane Around the Corner from Olivia Gourmet

As the day came to an end, we weary visitors climbed aboard our water taxi and headed back to the Radisson Blu Hotel. Everyone, even our youngest, had a great day in Dubrovnik.

Eight of Our Nine – All Exhausted but Happy

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Pozdrav iz Hrvatske! (Hello from Croatia!)

Yes, Croatia…Dubrovnik to be exact. It’s been a busy month. Come to think of it, is there such a thing as a slow month? Since my last post, our little Irish family has been to Arizona, Minnesota, Ireland and now Croatia. We’ve relaxed, exercised, gone to cooking school, been attacked by mosquitoes the size of Texas, visited with family and friends, been doused by Irish rain and sizzled under the Croatian sun. It’s been a roller coaster month but it’s been great!

The four of us, along with my brother-in-law, his wife, and their 18 month-old triplets, left Dublin six days ago for a sun holiday and boy what a sun holiday we’re having! It’s hot here, really hot! I’m talking the kind of heat that makes you sweat when you’re standing still! Thankfully the hotel has four swimming pools and access to a pristine beach so, once you’ve jumped into the water and gotten a lounge under an umbrella, it’s gorgeous.

Why Croatia, you ask? Quite simply, my lovely husband has been coming here for a few years on business and has always expressed an interest in bringing us along…this year he got the chance.

Croatia is what Turkey, Spain and Portugal were like many years ago, before they became over run by tourism. The countryside and islands are not spoiled by cheap holiday-home complexes and tacky fish-and-chip shops. There are no gangs of foreign-and-drunk-young-ones running amok. And, while it lacks the sophistication of the Riviera, Italian or French, it’s still magical.

The locals are friendly, the homegrown wines are good, the seafood is “plucked from the sea fresh” and don’t get me started on the ice cream…it’s so good. I’m glad my husband was finally able to bring us.

As for our hotel, I wish I could say this is the best place for all families but it’s really not. We’re staying at the Radisson Blu Resort and Spa, a 5-star hotel located about 10km outside the walled city of Dubrovnik. On face value it is excellent. There is a small Konzum (the equivalent of an Irish Spar or an American mini-mart), several restaurants, an ice cream parlor, two children’s pools, four adult pools, a beach and marina, a spa, two gyms, a kids’ club, a market area for picking up trinkets, and apartments, which the Radisson calls “Residences”.

Sounds wonderful, I know, but if you’re a family staying in one of the residences, which typically a family with several children would do, the downsides are many. For example, the complex is laid-out horizontally, not vertically, so there is a great deal of walking involved just going from the accommodation to a pool, restaurant or other elsewhere. There are, and I kid you not, literally hundreds of steps and only one lift (elevator), which is located over at the hotel. If you have a pram (stroller) be ready for a ten-minute walk. Children under three must be supervised by a parent in the kids’ club, defeating the purpose of a kids’ club in the first place. The indoor pool is “adults” only, which seems particularly cruel when the temperatures climb over 30°C/90°F. There’s the fact you have to be 16 or older to use the gyms. There isn’t an English magazine or newspaper to be found anywhere. There is no chemist (pharmacy) on site or a shop selling pharmaceutical basics. And, lastly, the only English-language television stations are news oriented.

Don’t get me wrong, our little family are having a terrific time. We came prepared
with Calpol and bug spray, an iPad and laptop loaded with entertainment,
sun hats, and light-weight clothes. Also, our children are old enough to take
the heat and walk long distances without complaining. Unfortunately my in-laws, with their young triplets, are not having the same kind of holiday. With our help, they are lugging around two prams, a single and a double, and all the necessary baby accoutrements to the pool and back, and the restaurants and back, several times a day. They have had to hire a service to take them into Dubrovnik to get nappies (diapers) and formula. They have had to sit with the toddlers in the kids’ club (even with our children helping out) and haven’t been able to spend much time by the pool because of the heat.

In my opinion, the Radisson Blu needs to make some changes in order to truly be considered “family friendly”, especially given the prices they charge for the residences. If any of us were coming back to this area of Croatia we might stay at the Radisson again but we’d take a room in the hotel with a sitting area (living room) that comes with a pull out sofa bed. At least at the hotel there aren’t as many steps to climb and it’s not too long a walk to restaurants, the pools and the beach.

To be perfectly honest, my husband and I would really love to come back to this part of Croatia and hire a chartered gulet so we could cruise the coastline, snorkel with the kids, explore remote deserted islands, stop in bustling villages at will and truly get to know Croatia better. Maybe next year…

Tomorrow the nine of us are exploring the walled city of Dubovnik!

Related Articles:

A blog fully dedicated to Croatia, especially the Dalmatian  coast: http://secretdalmatia.wordpress.com/

A useful resource for anyone about to visit Croatia: http://essenceofdubrovnik.com/

An insider view of Croatia at: http://www.croatiaonline.blogspot.ie/

A glossary of fish names and English translations that will be helpful to anyone about to visit Croatia: http://suite101.com/article/help-with-the-names-of-fish-in-restaurants-in-croatia-a350085

A short article in Esquire about what Anthony Bourdain ate when he visited Croatia, along with a recipe for grilled sardines that looks delicious: http://www.esquire.com/blogs/food-for-men/anthony-bourdain-sardines-8334870

A website for learning more about Croatian Wines: http://winesofcroatia.wordpress.com/2012/05/20/wines-of-croatia-news-round-up-for-may-20-2012/

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Jen Castle’s Lemon Chiffon Cake

Yesterday I promised to tell you about the Lemon Chiffon Cake I had at Hell’s Backbone Grill in Boulder, Utah. Here’s everything you need to know:

1. The recipe was created by Jen Castle, co-owner of Hell’s, and is featured in With a Measure of Grace, the cookbook she wrote with her business partner and friend, Blake Spalding.

2. This cake won Jen a blue ribbon at the Coconino County fair in Flagstaff, Arizona.

3. It is the lightest cake you can imagine: akin to an angel food cake but made with egg yolks and oil (which are not in angel food cake).

4. It is so le-le-le-lemony.

5. It is easy to make.

6. Everyone who tastes it will love it!

And that, Dear Readers, is everything you need to know about the Lemon Chiffon Cake at Hell’s Backbone Grill. A big “thank you” to Jen and Blake for generously sharing their recipe with us.

My Attempt at Hell’s Cake: Not as Pretty but Delicious!

Lemon Chiffon Cake

Serves 10-12

Cake Ingredients

2 cups/8oz/240gm flour

1 ½ cups/10oz/300g sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup/8oz cold water

7 egg yolks

8 egg whites

½ cup/4oz canola oil

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Zest of two lemons

½ teaspoon cream of tartar (optional if you can’t find it)

Icing Ingredients

1/3 cup/2oz softened (not melted) butter

2 cups/8oz icing sugar (confectioners’ sugar)

3 teaspoons lemon juice

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 335° F/168°C. In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking powder and salt.

2. In a small bowl, thoroughly combine water, yolks, oil, vanilla, and zest. Stir yolk mixture into dry ingredients until smooth.

3. In a large mixing bowl, beat egg whites with cream of tartar at medium-low speed until foamy and frothy. Increase speed and beat whites until stiff, but not dry, peaks. If you do not have cream of tartar, beat egg whites until stiff peaks form.

4. Pour yolk mixture over whites in ribbons, folding mixtures together very gently until just combined. Pour into ungreased 10” tube pan.

5. Bake 55 minutes until the top of the cake springs back when touched. Immediately invert pan and hang upside down on the neck of a bottle for 2 hours to cool.

6. Run a long, thin knife around the edge of the pan to loosen cake and remove from pan. The wider end of the cake will be the top when turned out onto a serving dish.

7. Make icing by combining all ingredients in small mixing bowl and whipping until smooth. Spread icing over cake top, allowing some to drip over the sides. Top with lemon zest.

Notes: I wasn’t sure what kind of flour to use for this recipe, so I used cake flour. I have since seen, on at least one other blog, that self-raising (all purpose) may also be used. And, if you’re not a fan of butter icing on cakes, consider a glaze made of lemon juice and icing sugar (confectioners’ sugar). Once made, pour the glaze over the cake and let set before serving. Add a dollop of freshly whipped cream on the side with a spring of mint.

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I blame my obsession with driving places on my father.  Sometime in the early 70’s he drove our entire family (all five of us) from the west coast of America to the east and back in a 64 Mustang. We covered the lower states on the way out and the upper states on the return. My brothers and I did not wear seat belts.  Electronic games and DVD players did not yet exist. We kids got car sick nearly every morning (the solution to which was chewing a piece of gum before breakfast).  We stayed in Holiday Inns and we thought the swimming pools and ice machines were fantastic fun. That trip across country was the only holiday our family ever took and it stands out in my mind as one of the best vacations I’ve ever had.

Fortunately, I married a lovely Irish man who enjoys road trips too. We recently invested in a small house-of-a-car just so we could hit the open road with our girls and explore the U.S. whenever possible. Last Wednesday, just twenty-four short hours after returning from a two-week trip to Las Vegas to help care for my grandmother, we started our first family road trip. Destination: Denver, Colorado.   

The start of our getaway was not ideal. True to form, we left much later than intended (causing a wee bit of stress).  It was raining (causing more stress). The kids were hungry (you guessed it, even more stress). That said we were unwilling to let a poor beginning hamper our spirits. We drove in the dark, in the rain, DVD movies playing for the kids, and lots of rubbishy snacks to tide us over until we made it to Vernal, Utah, home of the Utah Dinosaur National Monument (not to be confused with the Colorado one) and our first stop on the road to Denver.

Vernal is a small town. There’s not much to the main street other than hotels and fast food restaurants.  I’m sure there are plenty of nice folks living in Vernal, and I believe there are some great mountain biking trails, but there’s little village charm (especially on a cold and rainy evening). Thankfully our reservation at the Spring Hill Suite Hotel turned out to be a little oasis .  It was clean, modern and not too expensive. After a quick bite to eat at the Mexican restaurant next door, we settled in for a good night sleep and woke refreshed and ready for adventure.

Thursday morning we were in the car by 10:01am (my husband runs a tight schedule) and in the car park of the Dinosaur National Monument by 10.30am.  The drive to the visitor center (left) is very pretty: farm lands give way to gentle slopes, which in turn give way to enormous mountains, and the rapid moving Green River snakes quietly between them. The Center is small but houses an information area and video room, a gift shop and, most importantly, free transportation to the impressive Quarry Exhibit Hall. The bus ride to the Hall takes less than five minutes. Our driver, a second generation Irish-American, gave us a brief overview of the area’s history and was delighted to tell us we were among the first guests to visit the exhibit since it reopened two days before on what was the 96th anniversary of when President Woodrow Wilson created the monument.  The National Park Service closed  the exhibit 5 years ago when the clay soil under the original building had expanded to the point where the Hall was so extensively damaged it had become a danger to visitors and the famous “Wall of Bones” it encompassed.

The “Wall of Bones” is  a sight.  You walk into the Exhibit Hall at the upper level and immediately see a petrified spinal column of a dinosaur that roamed the earth millions of years ago. In all there are about 1,500 dinosaur bones exposed in a  200-foot-long wall permanently enclosed in the building. We were free to take as many pictures as we wanted and were encouraged by the Park Rangers to touch the bones too. If you saw the movie Jurassic Park, you’ll enjoy this exhibit.  The Wall of Bones dates back 145 million years, which places it near the end of the Jurassic period. Dinosaur remains in the quarry include Stegosaurus, Allosaurus, Diplodocus, Camptosaurus and Apatosaurus.

Since our intention was to make Utah’s Dinosaur National Monument a side trip on the road to Denver we didn’t have time to see more but if you go for a long weekend with your family be sure to do the ten mile self-guided driving tour that follows along the Green River.  I am told there are several interesting rock formations to see, plus some short trails that lead to Indian petroglyphs.  Camping and hiking is available in the monument for those who are particularly outdoorsy.

Back on the road, we drove to Steam Boat Springs, Colorado for a late lunch.  The scenery along the way was so pretty: we passed arid flat lands, rolling hills dressed in autumnal colours, and snow-covered trees and mountains. The drive took us about three hours. Keeping to our schedule, we didn’t spend much time in Steam Boat. We were there  just long enough to have a good burger at Old Town Pub (hey, we’re from Ireland – of course we had to try the one restaurant with the word “pub” in its name!). We did learn, however, that the area is nicknamed “Ski Town USA”, it gets an annual snow fall of about 331 inches of what they call Champagne powder (meaning the snow has 70% less moisture than elsewhere), and the year round activities include skiing and snowboarding (obviously), hiking and biking, hot air ballooning, rodeos, camps, and more.  An interesting blog on for those of you interested in visiting the area is written by Caroline LaLive, three-time Olympic Ski Racer and Steam Boat Springs local.

Steam Boat to Denver was another 3 hours of driving. As we dropped from the mountain tops into our destination city’s valley floor, I kid you not, the girls had watched six movies, had been engaged to look out the window at regular hourly intervals, had consumed several bags of snacks (they particularly enjoyed this road trip tradition), and had started to ask, “Are we there yet?”. The drive and sight-seeing, in total, took us twenty-six hours. It wasn’t my father’s cross-country marathon but it was every bit as enjoyable.  I hope our girls carry on the custom with their kids some day and remember fondly the road trips they took with us.

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