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I don’t know if you’ve noticed but this year I’ve tried to keep it more “real” here at In an Irish Home. This all because my brother once commented after casually stopping by, “your site is nice but where’s the truth about what’s really going on behind your hall door?”

{Ouch! That kind of smarted. Using my blog’s tag-phrase against me! Leave it to a family member to really tell you the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth.}

Like so many bloggers, I focus almost exclusively on the nicer side of life through stories and photos. It seems, however, that all this nice-ness is causing a ruckus. Women, especially, are feeling inadequate trying to live up to all the perfection they read about in blogs and on Facebook, and see on Instagram and Pinterest {especially during the holidays}.

Personally, this new way of beating ourselves up leaves me scratching my head and thinking a lot about the conversations I have with my two young daughters about bullying and meanness and insecurity. Is it really the intention of these online journalists {myself included} to make others feel bad about themselves?

I think not.

If you visit In an Irish Home regularly, you know I am not perfect all the time. My children, our home, and our life are not perfect all the time. Heck, it’s not even true some of the time.

Case in point, here are just a few of the things I am not perfecting in the days leading up to Christmas:

1. My house. The “public places” {the spaces I’d let you see if you called in unexpectedly} are decent enough but the rest looks…well…in utter disarray! That’s as nice a term I can use to describe what feels like total chaos.

2. The Christmas cards. They are not yet sent. This year I ordered them from Tiny Prints (in America) and they completely screwed up the shipping. So, our family tradition of sending cards in time for the holidays has been “destroyed”. Yes, I know it’s a strong word but that’s exactly how I feel and what I said to the Tiny Prints manager when I spoke with her last week by phone. I quote, “Your company has single-handedly managed to DESTROY a tradition our family has kept for nearly 15 years now. A 25% discount is not good enough, thank you…nor is your second offer of a 75% discount. For DESTROYING our family tradition, your company should reimburse me 100%!” In fairness, they did. I’m still not happy.

3. The presents. There’s a stack of presents still waiting to be wrapped {even though I’ve wrapped a little bit every day for two weeks} and I’m starting to think it may be just good-enough to scratch off the price tags and stick a bow on the packages. The wrapping paper is only going to be ripped off and recycled on Christmas morning anyway…is it REALLY necessary to make them look pretty with festive paper? Oh the waste of time and money and energy!

4. The Christmas pudding. I haven’t made an Irish Christmas pudding this year and now it’s too late. The tradition of making a pudding in Ireland begins way back in November or, at the very least, early December. Now I’ll have to rush out and pay for one that’s been mass-produced in some factory…not very Martha Stewart or Rachel Allen of me.

5. Feeling joyful. In the last few days, I realised that I am feeling joy-less. Even with all the decorating done and the biscuits baked, and the gifts bought and in the post, I don’t feel a sense of real joy in our home yet. I think that because of all the decorating, wrapping, creating, baking, shopping, and hosting I have done with military precision, I have lost the true spirit of the season…Joy-full-ness!

And there you have it…the short list of all the things I’m not perfecting. I could go on but why bore you? The bottom line is there’s no perfection in our home. And, I suspect there’s none going on in anyone else’s home either.

Despite what we may see and read on the internet, none of us have any idea what’s going on behind the key tapping/lens of anyone’s public persona.

Let me share with you one last thing about “keeping it real” before I let you go…this morning we learned that a very dear friend of ours passed away during the night. Her adoring husband and three beautiful children have spent the past month saying their goodbyes and preparing themselves for her death. We all hoped it wasn’t really going to happen and none of us expected now. But it has.

Our hearts are broken for the loss of this friend. She was a good…kind…honest person. After a recent surgery, I called her for a chat. When I asked her what mattered most she told me simply, “family and friends”.

Not career. Not lifestyle. Not perfection…or Christmas presents…or clean house…or cards…or Christmas pudding. When our friend pared the meaning of life down to its simplest expression, what really mattered most were those she held dear. She told me life was too short to worry about the rest.

So, I’m leaving you today to find and create real joy with my little family. My wish for you and yours is that you find what’s real for you and you keep it close… now and the whole year through.

Happy Christmas!

DSC_0663Oh my gosh! Oh my goodness! These biscuits (cookies) are to-die-for good!!

The first time I made them, they didn’t turn out so well. Silly me, I didn’t chop the crystallised ginger near enough and they were lumpy. The second time I made them, however, I did everything right and even my pickiest eater liked them.

They are a doddle to make. {Which is all the more important in this busy holiday season.} It probably took 10 minutes to mix up the ingredients.

The only hitch is you have to let them rest in the fridge for 1-2 hours before popping them into the oven. Actually, since I’m thinking/writing out loud, these are the ideal biscuits to make while you are wrapping presents…you mix the ingredients, refrigerate, wrap, bake, wrap, enjoy – what could be simpler? Right?!

While you’re busy baking and wrapping, turn up the volume on your computer/iPad and have a listen to this podcast on Irish Christmas food. Eoin (sounds like O-wen) Purcell of HistoryJournal.ie interviews Regina Sexton, food and culinary historian at University College Cork, about the origins of the foods we eat at Christmastime. If you’re not familiar with HistoryJournal.ie {which I was not}, it is an “exclusively online Irish history journal, covering a wide range of topics across Irish history and the wider Irish worldwide community”. 

And, for a bit of cheer to those living abroad, here’s a few of the best 2013 Christmas food advertisements playing on telly.

From Lidl –

From Cadbury –

From Baileys –

Lastly, for a bit of a laugh {you can’t take him too seriously}, here’s a clip of Colin Farrell’s interview with American television late-night-host Jimmy Kimmel about his traditional Irish Christmas.

Avoca Handweaver’s Crystallised Ginger Shortbread

Makes about 16 biscuits

Ingredients

1 cup/130g plain flour

1/2 cup/60g icing sugar

1/2 cup/60g cornflour

9 tablespoon/130g unsalted butter

130g crystallised ginger, finely chopped

30g caster sugar (for top of shortbread)

Directions

1. Line a baking sheet with baking parchment.

2. Place the flour, icing sugar, cornflour, and butter in a food processor and blitz until starting to come together, then add the crystalized ginger and continue to process until the mixture combines fully. {I also added a few drops of ice water at this point}

3. Remove and roll into a ball.

4. Roll out the dough to 0.5cm thick. Cut into rounds with a small scone or cookie cutter.

5. Place on a lined baking sheet and allow to rest in the fridge for 1-2 hours, then bake for about 40-45 minutes.

6. Remove, and while still warm, sprinkle with a little caster sugar. The shortbread will keep in an airtight container for up to 10 days.

Irish Christmas ShoppingScreen Shot 2013-12-09 at 7.06.45 PMYou love it. You hate it. You’ve got to do it. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, I am talking about Christmas shopping!

If you’re one of the lucky ones, you’ll be jetting off to New York for a bit of glam at Barneys, Bloomies, Macys and, perhaps, Bergdorfs. But if you’re like the rest of us staying closer to home, there is still lots of wonder and fun to be had.

To help you with everything from carrying your packages to Christmas deals, to shopping for loved ones living abroad and finding gifts for those “hard to please” family and friends, I’ve scoured my favourite haunts and come up with some ideas for you {and me}.

So, whether you’re out and about or at home surfing the net, the following seven resources will help make your Irish Christmas shopping less of a chore and more a labour of love. Enjoy!

Tip One…Finish a long day of Christmas shopping at Brown Thomas so you can avail of a new service BT has on offer…a Bell-Boy. According to their website, Frederic will happily carry your holiday packages to your car or hotel so you don’t have to. Book him here.

Brown Thomas Bell-boy

Frederic Johnson, the Brown Thomas Bell-Boy

Tip Two…Looking for a good shopping deal every day? Check out Marks & Spencer’s 12 Days of Magic and Sparkle here.

Tip Three…Need presents for loved ones now living abroad? Dunnes Stores has something for every budget and delivers internationally. The shipping charges are surprisingly reasonable. Learn more here.

Tip Four…Shop, tour, eat, and, when you’re done, take the kiddies to meet Santa at Avoca Handweaver’s Powerscourt. Book here.

Avoca Treats

Avoca Treats

Tip Five…Skip the hassles of in-person shopping and send a Donnybrook Fair hamper to your nearest and dearest. You’ll find them here. If a hamper doesn’t fit the bill, how about treating someone on your list to a fun cooking class here?

Tip Six… If time allows, pop into Fallon & Bryne in Dublin city centre where you’re sure to find a gift for a boss, relation, or friend who loves eating and cooking. While you’re there, have lunch or a relax over a drink at the bar…so nice. Too hassled to get out? Peruse their delicious on-line catalogue here.

Tip Seven… Visit Makers & Brothers for one of a kind gifts for that hard-to-buy-for-person in your life. Before you go, though, check-out this lovely short film about their Tiny Department Store here.

http://vimeo.com/80457088

Note: All photos for this post were taken from the websites of the companies  and services mentioned above. Thank you.

English: Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland. A Ch...

Wicklow Street, Dublin, Ireland. A Christmas greeting in Irish Gaelic (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The Christmas countdown begins tonight in our Irish home and we are all a flutter with bringing home the Christmas (dressing the house and making treats). 

Our many boxes of decorations are sitting unopened in the hallway as I type this post, the tree is in the house waiting to be dressed, and the crèche is still in its boxes {as are my mom’s Department 56 holiday villages} but not for long! Tomorrow is December 8th which means Christmas in Ireland is officially underway.

Without a doubt this is one of the loveliest times of the year. Starting 8th December, with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception and going through to 6th January with the Epiphany, there are lights to see, pantos to attend, singing choirs and street musicians to listen to, festive windows to visit, pubs to stuff into {mind your packages}, and traditions to keep.

Speaking of which, traditionally people living in the “country” come up to Cork, Dublin and Galway to start their shopping on 8th December but that’s not where the fun ends. There’s mid-night mass, a swim at the 40 Foot Christmas morning, the horse races on St. Stephen’s Day, and Nollaig na mBan on 6th January. I particularly like the last event as it’s the day when women meet up with one another or put their feet up and the men of the house do the housework, cooking and take down the Christmas decorations. {Laughter}…that’s never happened in our house!

So there you have it…Irish Christmas 2013 is just beginning. Hope you feel all the joy of the season and have a very Happy Christmas!

Read more: 

More about an Irish Christmas then and now at: http://www.irishcultureandcustoms.com/ACalend/XmasthenNow.html

Christmas in Ireland Traditions at: http://christmas.guide-to-nireland.com

A typical Irish Christmas at: http://www.dochara.com/the-irish/irish-christmas/a-typical-irish-christmas/

Top Irish Christmas Traditions at: http://www.irishcentral.com/roots/The-top-ten–Irish-Christmas-traditions-that-make-the-season—SEE-PHOTOS-112236619.html

DSC_0220How Do You Like Them Apples

Ok, so…it’s a bit cheeky to start out a post with the heading, “How Do You Like My Apples?”, but I just couldn’t resist. For weeks I’ve been finding ways to use up all the apples we either grew or foraged locally and I’ve been anxiously waiting to share the results with you.

Since September we’ve been making fresh pressed apple juice, applesauce, Irish apple cake, rustic apple galette, and caramel apples in our kitchen. I even tried to make apple fruit rolls but that was just a step too far…even for me. They weren’t so nice.

I give full credit for all this apple busyness to my lovely mother-in-law, who lives the adage “waste not want not”. Years ago, when she saw me binning (throwing out) apples that had fallen off our trees and were becoming worm fodder, she ordered me to collect them up and then she brought me into my own kitchen for a bit of culinary instruction.

“First you cut out the bad bits and toss them in the bin,” she said.

To which I replied, “But what about the worms?” Truth be told, I really didn’t fancy the idea of accidentally cutting through one.

“Don’t mind them…they can go in the bin too!” she answered with a smile. And that was that. I never looked back.

Leaving the skins on apples when you press them makes their juice run a gorgeous shade of pink. The colour alone is enough to suffer through yucky bits of brown apple and the possibility of the occasional decimated worm. If you have any doubt, just look at the photo below.

DSC_0220And don’t mind the brown foam at the top. As Mama told me all those years ago, “It’s lovely!” Enjoy.

Homemade Apple Juice

Makes One Large Glass

Ingredients

3-5 apples, washed with skins left on

Directions

1. Cut apples into chunks, remove and discard seeds and core.

2. Put into juicing machine as per factory instructions.

3. Serve or freeze immediately.

Note: To make enough juice to fill a 2 litre carafe like this one, I used 6lbs/700g of small apples.

 

Celtic Cross at Gettysburg

Celtic Cross at Gettysburg (Photo credit: jimcrotty.com)

On Thanksgiving Day the following were among the most popular search engine terms that led people to In an Irish Home:

1. Irish Thanksgiving Prayer

2. Irish Thanksgiving Blessing

3. Irish Grace for Thanksgiving

4. Irish Blessing for Thanksgiving Dinner

5. Irish Blessing at Thanksgiving

Folks, I want to be very honest with you…Thanksgiving is not an Irish celebration. There is no special prayer, blessing or grace for Thanksgiving because the holiday does not exist in Ireland.

If you are looking for a form of Grace or a Prayer for mealtime that is typically Irish, I can tell you that I have only ever heard two in all my 20+ years of living in Ireland and they are:

Bless us, O Lord,

and these thy gifts

which we are about to receive

from thy bounty

through
 Christ our Lord. Amen.

~~~

Bless us O God as we sit together.

Bless the food we eat today.

Bless the hands that made the food,

Bless us O God. Amen.

I know this may not be what you want to read but I want you, Dear Readers, to know what really goes on behind the hall door of an Irish home. If, by chance, you know of any other grace or prayer that is said in Ireland, please do tell. I am always happy to pass good things on.

If you are looking for one of the many beautiful Irish toasts and blessings, some of which may be appropriate at mealtime, you can find many Irish blessings and prayers at inanirishhome.com at In an Irish Home.

But, if what you’re looking for is a traditional prayer before mealtime, one that is recited in homes all across the country, what you read above is what you’re after. As always, I wish you all the best.

Additional Notes, Related Articles & Credit:

* Prayers recited in our Irish home for lent may be found Irish prayers for lent.

** I learned to pray the Rosary properly with the help of my amazing mother-in-law, Mary Rose. How to pray the Rosary is what she taught me: in life it has served me well.

*** A poem that is often recited at Irish funerals includes the one known as Miss Me – But Let Me Go poem.

 

DSC_0664 DSC_0666 DSC_0663There are many ways to cook a turkey but in our Irish home there is only one way to make stuffing…my mother-in-law’s way!

As a young bride, I tried for years {ten to be exact} to impress my lovely Irish husband with my stuffing recipes on Thanksgiving and Christmas day.

Despite his appreciation of my attempts, every year I knew that I had not achieved what I was hoping for…my husband’s nod of culinary approval. Somehow my mother-in-law’s recipe was always better than mine.

Finally, one year, I threw in the towel and quit trying. I called Mama, my husband’s mother, and asked her to teach me how to make her recipe.

I still remember the delight I felt when, at long last, my husband tasted “my stuffing” and declared, “It’s as good as my mum’s!”  So chuffed I was to have finally succeeded. That year, and every year since, I have told this story to everyone at our holiday table.

Today I share it, the story and the recipe, with you. Mama McGuire’s Irish Stuffing is so ridiculously simple…and so ridiculously good. I am sure you will thank me once you’ve tried it. Enjoy!

Mama McGuire’s Irish Stuffing

Serves Eight

Ingredients

32oz batch loaf bread (white sliced pan)

16 tablespoons diced cold butter

1 cup chopped parsley

2 tablespoons Italian herbs

3 small onions, chopped finely

Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Pulse the bread finely in a food processor and pour into a large bowl.

2. Stir in the chopped onion, parsley, and Italian herbs.

3. With your fingertips, blend in the diced cold butter. Mix until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs.

4. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

5. Refrigerate until ready to stuff into turkey.

Michael Chiarello's Apple ClafoutisThe holiday of Thanksgiving does not exist in Ireland. On what is the fourth Thursday in November, adults all across the country go to work, kids go to school, and homemakers go about the business of homemaking. But for those of us with American roots, Thanksgiving in Ireland is more than just a “regular day”…it is THE day we long to reach across the Atlantic and touch a bit of home.

Yesterday morning our little family began the day with a celebratory {but light} Apple Clafoutis for breakfast, courtesy of Michael Chiarello. For those not familiar with him, Michael is an award-winning American chef and restauranteur. His hugely popular Bottega Restaurant in Yountville, California (Napa Valley) serves up rustic, inventive, delicious food. The decor, which in my {humble} opinion is just as important as the food, is sexy and intimate, and not at all claustrophobic. Note to all you single-but-dating travel bugs…Bottega would be an ideal place to pop the question, if you can get a reservation!

Anyway, I digress, the point is yesterday morning I wanted to give my family something light with a bit of sweetness…something reflecting the mood of the holiday but not heavy. After all, we were going to eat a HUGE meal when everyone finally got home.

Michael Chiarello’s Apple Clafoutis, which is technically a dessert, was the perfect dish for our Thanksgiving breakfast. Michael says on his own website that this dish, “is a French-country farmers favorite”. True or not, it certainly will be in our Irish home for years to come. I hope you will enjoy it too. Belated Happy Thanksgiving to you.

Michael Chiarello’s Apple Clafoutis

Serves: 6

Ingredients

Batter:

1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1/3 cup plus 2 teaspoons granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pinch of salt

3 eggs plus 1 egg yolk

1 cup milk

Apples:

1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 cups peeled and diced Granny Smith apple (1/2-inch dice; about 1 large apple)

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon grappa, Calvados, or other fruit brandy (I substituted apple juice)

Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

1/3 cup crème fraîche

Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 400ºF.

2. Make the batter: Sift the flour, granulated sugar, cinnamon and salt into a bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, egg yolk, and milk until well blended. Add about one-third of the egg mixture to the flour mixture and whisk to form a paste, then gradually incorporate the remaining egg mixture. Whisk until well blended.

3. Cook the apples: With the tip of a knife, scrape the vanilla bean seeds from the pod into an ovenproof 10-inch cast-iron or stainless-steel skillet. Add the pod and the butter and cook over moderately high heat until the butter turns nut brown. Add the apple and cook, stirring often, for about 3 minutes to soften them. Remove the vanilla bean pod and discard. Sprinkle the apples with the granulated sugar, reduce the heat to moderately low, and cook until the apples are about three-fourths done and the sugar has melted and is coating the apples in a light syrup. Add the grappa or other brandy, swirl the pan briefly, then spread the fruit evenly in the pan.

4. Remove the pan from the heat. Working quickly, pour the batter through a sieve evenly over the fruit. Bake until the edges of the clafoutis are puffed and browned and the center is set, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven.

5. Put some confectioners’ sugar in a sieve and generously dust the surface of the clafoutis. Serve warm directly from the pan with a dollop of crème fraîche.

A montage of Salt Lake City photos. Photo credit: Wikipedia.

Mormons, Donny and Marie Osmond, confusing liquor laws, polygamy…welcome to Salt Lake City, also known as the City of Saints and the Crossroads of the West.

One rarely reads good things about Salt Lake but having spent the better part of a week here, I most assuredly can tell you that this town is one of the best kept secrets in America…shhh, don’t tell anyone!

Before getting to the good stuff, let’s dispel the misconceptions I started this post with.

1) There’s too many Mormons. Fact: While Salt Lake City is where the Church of Latter Day Saints of Jesus Christ is headquartered, it is not the most highly concentrated Mormon city in America. With just over 50% of the population claiming to be LDS, the honour of being the most Mormon city belongs to Franklin, Idaho where a whopping 90% of the community declares itself so.

2) Donny and Marie Osmond are Salt Lake City’s most famous residents. Fact: The toothy duo are not from Salt Lake. Technically they were born a short distance away in Ogden, Utah. They may hail from the Beehive state but there are many other famous people, including Robert Redford, Katherine Heigl, Ty Burrell of Modern Family, Roseanne Barr, Julianna Hough, Steven Covey, David Archuleta, and Jewel, to name but a few, who call or have called Salt Lake City and the surrounding area home.

3. Utah has the weirdest alcoholic beverage laws. Fact: It’s true, Utah liquor laws are famously strict but they are relaxing. The three things visitors coming to Utah should know are 1) there is no longer a private club system and membership requirement; 2) at the discretion of the establishment, patrons may bring their own bottle of wine into a licensed restaurant or private club for on-site private consumption if they pay a corkage fee; and 3) patrons may carry out unfinished wine from a restaurant or private club provided that the bottle has been re-corked.

4. Polygamy is rampant everywhere in Utah. Fact: While it may be fun to debate the pros and cons of having a legal second spouse or two or three, polygamy is illegal in all of Utah. Popular television shows like Sister Wives and Big Love have stoked the public’s interest in plural marriage but the only polygamy I’ve seen in Salt Lake City has been served up in a tall bottle with a half-naked man on it surrounded by women with a slogan that reads, “Why just have one!”.

Now, having dispelled the biggest myths, let’s delve into the truth about Salt Lake City…there is literally something for everyone to do. Here’s what we’ve discovered this week…

For the foodie there are many terrific restaurants to try like Frida’s, Cafe Niche, Trios, Copper Onion, Finca, Vinto, Pago, Forage, Bambara, Les Madeleine’s and Red Iguana. Be sure to check out Salt Lake magazines 2013 Best Dining award winners for a more complete list of restaurants and cafes.

For the shopaholic there’s plenty to purchase in boutiques like Hip and Humble, The Children’s Hour, The Sundance Store, Apt. 202, Whimsy, Bella Forte, Babinski’s, Bloomingsales, The King’s English, Four and Twenty Sailors, Haroons, The Tutoring Toy, and Solissa. And, if you’re in the mood for a mall check-out The Gateway, City Creek, and Fashion Place.

For the lover of culture you can while away the hours in the Utah Museum of Fine Arts, Ballet West, the Utah Museum of Contemporary Arts, the Gilgal Garden, the Capitol Theatre, Abravanel Hall, the Natural History Museum, and the Leonardo.

For the garden enthusiast hours can be spent walking around Red Butte Gardens and Thanksgiving Square. One tip, bring comfortable shoes…both gardens are big.

For the young at heart killing time feels more like play time at This is the Place, Lagoon, Discovery Gateway, Hogle Zoo, Clark Planetarium, the Tracy Aviary, and Wheeler Historic Farm

For the historian there is lots to learn at Temple Square, the Cathedral of the Madeleine, the State Capitol, the University of Utah, and the Great Salt Lake.

For the genealogist there is only one place to visit…the Salt Lake City Family History Library…end of story and in the words of Brigham Young, “This is the Place”.

For the wanderer there are terrific neighbourhoods and villages to visit including the Avenues, Rose Park, Capitol Hill, Marmalade, Glendale, Foothill, and Sugar House. And, within the villages, there are neighbourhoods like 9th & 9th, 15th & 15th, and 21st & 21st where one can stroll around and enjoy a bite to eat and a bit of shopping.

And, finally, for anyone willing to drive an hour or so away there’s beauty and adventure in Park City with its three world-class ski resorts, Robert Redford’s Sundance, Snow Basin, Alta, Brighton, Snowbird, Solitude, Provo, and Ogden.

This week we’ve learned a lot about Salt Lake City and we think it’s a pretty cool place for families everyone to visit. Next stop – home! We’ll continue heading east, unpack and clean out the car at our little home on the edge of the Rockies, and then fly through New York on our final journey across the pond.

At long last, we’ll be back to Ireland. It was fun, interesting, educational, and enlightening taking this epic road trip across North-West America. We’ve discovered a lot about ourselves, each other, and parts of America that are not often visited. I hope you’ve learned a little too about traveling this section of America. Perhaps you’ll consider making it a road trip route for one of your upcoming vacations. If so, please do write me for advice or to share your stories.

My parting advice for this holiday is this: don’t do as we did and “wing it”…take time to really investigate possible site-seeing stops and dining options. Whether you stop or not is up to you on each individual day. Overall, I feel our biggest mistake was not knowing where our next good meal would be…otherwise, it was nearly all good!

Guinness Beef StewWell, it finally happened…

After four long weeks on the road, we finally found GOOD food. I mean REALLY good food.

Up till now we’ve been subsisting on fast-food, chain-food, and any and all kinds of rubbish-food. It’s been awful and we’ve become increasingly crankier by the day. The final straw came this morning, when we decided not to visit Yellowstone National Park because the traffic jams and crowds felt too overwhelming. You could say we didn’t have the stomach for it.

We needed real food…and soon…but where?

Heading into Butte, Montana, last night, I felt certain we weren’t going to find what we were looking for…sustenance. Aging headframes, derelict buildings (complete with ghost signs), and a 90-foot statue of the Virgin Mary glowing eerily in the distance doesn’t exactly scream, “Good-food served here!”.  But in Butte, the uptown is the downtown, the high is the low, and the locals know there is plenty of great-food ~ from Irish Pasties to creamy Guinness Stew ~ ready for the eating.

Known as “The Richest Hill on Earth”, “The Sodom of the West”, “Ireland’s Fifth Province” and, more recently, the town that is “A Mile High and a Mile Deep”, Butte was once a rich mining community filled with immigrants from around the world, particularly Ireland.

Butte Montana MinersThe first to arrive hailed from Mayo, Donegal and Cork, especially, the Beara Peninsula. By the early 1900s, Irish immigrants, mostly Catholic, made up one quarter of the population. Remarkably, by the turn of the last century, Butte was the most Irish-populated city in America. Almost every able man made his living in the mines, including Marcus Daly of Ballyjamesduff, Co. Cavan, who was known the world over as the Copper King. As co-owner of the Anaconda Mine, Daly was second in American wealth only to Rockefeller.

Though they came for the chance to strike it rich, the Irish never truly left Ireland behind. In Butte, they arrived and promptly built neighbourhoods with names like Finntown, Corktown, and Dublin Gulch. They kept their cultural and ethnic traditions alive through language, celebration and food.

It is the food, in particular, that interests me. As you recall at the start of this post I was lamenting our need for good-food on this road trip. To find it…and then have it be Irish-food…in the middle of Montana…is, well… fascinating. The meal we ate last night at Casagranda’s Steakhouse was as good as any I’ve ever had…and that’s not just hungry road trip talk!  Casagranda’s is known for its perfectly seasoned, hand cut, Rocky Mountain grown beef {which by the way is delicious} but it was the Guinness Beef Stew that bowled me over. Creamy, rich, hearty, and ever-so-slightly sweet, this stew is not like any other I have ever tasted.

The Bertoglio Building, Home of Casagranda’s Steakhouse

I spoke with Lisa Casagranda Randall, co-owner of Casagranda’s Steakhouse, by phone to ask her for a copy of the recipe and to ask if, by chance, she had Irish roots running through her family. Her last name sounds Italian but it turns out Lisa’s great grandparents were both from Ireland, Cork and Donegal to be exact. They came to Montana for work and ended up building a life. Lisa spent many of her summers in Butte visiting family and eventually moved permanently to the area. With her sister Carrie Casagranda Leary, Casagranda’s was born 11 years ago. The Guinness Stew I had last night originally started out as an appetizer served on bread. People liked it so much however, that it eventually became a permanent dish on the menu, with bread served on the side. And though she hasn’t had the chance to visit herself, Lisa hopes one day she’ll make it back to the home of her ancestors across the sea.

Truth be told, from what I saw of Butte, Lisa is living as close to Ireland as someone in America can. It’s very hard to put into words but Butte feels more authentically Irish than any place I’ve been: it’s not like Boston or New York or Chicago. I, for one, hope to make it back soon: perhaps for St. Patrick’s Day 2014. It would be great craic (fun) to see how they do it there. In the mean time, if you are on a road trip and going through Montana, be sure to call in to Butte. Not only will you get a delicious meal at Casagranda’s but also you will find lots of Irish charm, history, and culture at every turn.

Casagranda’s Steakhouse Guinness Beef Stew

Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients

900g/2 lbs stewing beef, trimmed of fat and cut into 2” (bite-size) pieces

50ml/¼ cup canola oil

2oz/¼ cup all-purpose flour

Salt and pepper to taste

1 can Guinness Draught (not Guinness Stout, which is too bitter)

500ml/2 cups beef broth

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1oz/ ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar

80ml/ 1/3 cup red wine vinegar

Directions

1. Spread beef evenly across a sheet pan.

2. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sift flour over both sides of meat and evenly coat.

3.  Heat canola oil in a cast iron casserole dish until very hot.

4. Add the floured and seasoned beef and sear until golden brown on all sides.

5. Combine Guinness, stock, mustard, sugar and vinegar and mix well. Pour over beef and bring to a rapid boil.

6. Reduce heat to low and simmer until meat is very tender.

7. Serve on its own or “traditional style” over mashed potatoes.

 

Related Articles:

Great Photos and a list of things to do in Butte at: http://theroadtriphound.com/2013/07/29/when-an-uptown-goes-underground-keeping-the-history-alive-in-butte-montana/

An Irish Times article about Butte at: http://www.ktvq.com/news/butte-most-irish-town-in-america-/#_

A road trip guide to Butte at http://biggestballofstring.wordpress.com/2013/01/09/36w-jan-9-butte-montana/

More great photos and information about Butte at: http://www.ramonaflightner.com/2012/09/04/butte-montana/

Butte’s Irish Language Immersion Programme at http://uhblog.ulsterheritage.com/2010/04/loading.html

An Irish woman’s view of Butte at http://missoulian.com/news/local/an-irish-woman-s-story-of-chance-leads-to-butte/article_59bef3f6-8eb7-11e2-b714-001a4bcf887a.html

The life and death of an Irish copper heiress at http://observer.com/2013/09/odd-but-not-out-of-it-eccentric-heiress-huguette-clark-had-her-wits-about-her-says-new-book/

Marcus Daly at http://dalymansion.org/history/mrdaly.php

NY Times Death Notice for Marcus Daly at http://query.nytimes.com/mem/archive-free/pdf?res=F10F1FF73B5E14728FDDAA0994D9415B808CF1D3

Butte Today at http://www.mainstreetbutte.org

Interior designer, Bob Richter visits and reports on Butte for the Huffington Post at http://www.huffingtonpost.com/bob-richter/rich-in-history-land-and-_b_4095295.html

Timothy Egan writes about his recent trip to Butte for The New York Times at http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/03/12/true-irish/?_r=0

Rants and Reflections on Butte at http://fl250.blogspot.com/2006/06/butte-montana.html

Tried and True Recipes from Three Sisters from Butte at http://tseas.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/tried-and-true-recipes-of-butte-montana.pdf